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Watch Reference by S. V.

All About Watches, Serials, Reference Numbers & Specs

Watch Reference by S. V.
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Zenith El Primero A386

Zenith El Primero A386 (Photo from Christies)

No other watch so immediately evokes the glamourous world of 1950s international air-travel as the Rolex GMT-Master. Advertised at the time as being “the ideal watch for air-pilots, ships’ captains, travelers and businessmen”, the GMT-Master has a fourth arrow-tipped hand for the display of a second time zone with corresponding 24-hour numerals on the bezel. The model was developed at the instigation of Pan American Airlines (Pan Am) who asked Rolex to produce a watch on which two time zones could be read simultaneously. Originally, pilots set the additional hand to Greenwich Meantime, hence the origin of the model’s name “GMT-Master”. The first reference 6542 was in production between 1954 and 1959. The distinctive red and blue bezel of this and later models has become nicknamed the “Pepsi” by collectors.

General

Brand: Rolex
Model: GMT-Master
Reference: 6542
Production Years: 1954 – 1959
Quantity Produced: ~4500

Dial

  • Silver dial with tri color subdials
  • Tritium indices
  • Small seconds at 9 o’clock
  • 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock
  • 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
  • Date indication at 4:30
  • Dial variations:
    • A under H
    • A offset to H
    • Service dials
A under H
A under H
A offset to H
A offset to H
Zenith A386 Service Dial
Zenith A386 Service Dial

Case

Case Material: Stainless Steel
Caseback: Solid
Case Diameter: 38 mm
Lug Width: 19 mm
Case Thickness:
  • MK I: 9 mm
  • MK II: 9 mm
  • MK III: 10 mm

Tachymetre Scale

There are mostly two types of tachymetre scales can be seen, but I’ve also seen another one in years.

  • The original and period correct tachymetre scale has a straight “C”
  • The service tachymetre scale has a curved “C”
  • The other service one has linear writing besides radial writing on tachymetre numerals and angular “C”.

Movement

a386-tachymetre-scale-elongated-c
Original period correct tachymetre with elongated “C” and radial numbers (Photo from zenith-watches.com)
A386 service tachymetre with circular "C" and radial numbers
A386 service tachymetre with circular "C" and radial numbers
A386 service tachymetre with linear (non-radial) numbers and angular "C"
A386 service tachymetre with linear (non-radial) numbers and angular "C"
A386 service tachymetre with radial non-serif numbers and circular "C"
A386 service tachymetre with radial non-serif numbers and circular "C"
Movement Type: Automatic
Functions:
  • Hours and minutes in the centre
  • Small seconds at 9 o’clock
  • Tachymetric scale
  • Date indication at 4:30
  • Chronograph:
    • Central chronograph hand
    • 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock
    • 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Calibre: 3019 PHC
 
El Primero is the first ever fully integrated, high-frequency, automatic chronograph movement.
Zenith El Primero 3019 Caliber

Bracelet and Strap

Bracelet: Gay Freres Ladder Bracelet
Strap: Leather Strap with Zenith Buckle
Endlinks: ZJ
Zenith A386 Gay Freres Bracelet
Zenith A386 Gay Freres Bracelet
A386 Gay Freres Ladder Braceelet Correct ZJ Endlink
A386 Gay Freres Ladder Braceelet Correct ZJ Endlink
Zenith Buckle (Photo from artomatique.net)
Zenith Buckle (Photo from artomatique.net)
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  • el primero
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